Cord/stere/loose ↔ conversions + heat value by wood type
This calculator converts between cords, steres, and loose cubic metres, and estimates the heat output for different wood types. Conversions use standard volume factors, while heat values are based on each wood species' calorific content in kWh. Get a clear picture of exactly how much firewood you need for the season.
Measure the stacked pile in feet — length, width and height — and multiply the three figures to get the cubic volume, then divide that by the cubic volume of a full cord. Stack the wood tightly in rows, because loose or crisscrossed piles measure larger than the solid wood they actually contain.
A half cord is exactly half the stacked volume of a full cord, so a tightly stacked pile that is half as long or half as high as a full cord. Prices vary by region, species and whether the wood is seasoned or green, so compare sellers by volume rather than by "truckload".
No, a full cord is not a cube — it is a stack twice as long as it is high and deep. A cube-shaped stack of those side lengths is only half a cord, which is why sellers who quote a "cube" are usually describing a half cord.
A quarter cord is one fourth of the stacked volume of a full cord, typically a short, tightly stacked row of standard-length splits about waist to chest height. It is a common size for occasional fireplace use rather than for heating a home through winter.
Only if each rick is stacked half as deep as a full cord, meaning the pieces are cut to half the cord's depth. A rick or face cord is as long and high as a cord but only one log deep, so with shorter splits you may need three ricks to reach a full cord.
A half cord of seasoned hardwood is generally too heavy and too bulky for a standard half-ton pickup with a short bed. Weight is usually the limiting factor before volume, so check your truck's payload rating and consider hauling it in two trips.
A half cord lasts a few weeks to a whole season, depending on how you burn it. Occasional weekend fires in a fireplace stretch it over months, while a wood stove used as the main heat source in cold weather can burn through it in a matter of weeks.
Rules vary by state and country, but overhanging loads generally must be marked with a bright red or orange flag by day and a light or reflector at night. Check your local transport regulations, since the permitted overhang length and marking requirements differ.
For a typical wood stove, expect to burn a handful of splits over three hours, adding a new piece or two each time the fire burns down. An open fireplace consumes noticeably more, since most of its heat goes up the chimney.
Firewood is sold in several different units depending on where you live. In North America, the standard unit is a cord of wood — a neatly stacked pile measuring 4 × 4 × 8 feet, equal to 128 cubic feet or roughly 3.62 cubic meters. In Europe, the stere (1 cubic meter of stacked wood) is the common unit. Converting between these measurements used to require manual math, but a firewood calculator makes it instant and accurate.
Why does the unit matter? Because firewood is priced and sold by volume, but what you actually pay for is heat output. Two cords of wood can deliver wildly different amounts of energy depending on species and moisture content. A cord of dry oak produces roughly 26–29 million BTU, while a cord of pine delivers closer to 17–18 million BTU. Knowing the difference helps you buy smarter and budget your heating season properly.
Hardwoods are denser and store more energy per cubic meter than softwoods. Oak and beech are top-tier choices for heating — beech averages around 2,100 kWh per stere, and oak comes in just behind at roughly 2,050 kWh per stere. These are excellent for long, steady burns through cold nights. Birch is a popular middle-ground option, offering about 1,900 kWh per stere with a pleasant smell and good flame.
Softwoods like pine and spruce burn faster and produce less heat per unit — typically 1,400–1,600 kWh per stere. They're not bad choices for shoulder-season heating or getting a fire started quickly, but for an all-winter primary heat source, you'll need significantly more volume. The heating oil equivalent comparison puts this in perspective: 1 stere of dry beech replaces roughly 160–170 liters of heating oil, while a stere of spruce replaces only about 110 liters.
All these values assume properly seasoned or kiln-dried wood with a moisture content below 20%. Wet or green firewood can lose 30–50% of its effective heating value because energy goes into evaporating water rather than producing heat. Always verify moisture content before buying in bulk.
This tool on simple-calculator.online lets you enter a quantity in cords, steres, or cubic meters and instantly see the converted volumes alongside the estimated heating output in both kWh and BTU for five common wood species. For example, if you have 2 steres of oak, you can immediately see that equals roughly 0.55 cords and delivers approximately 4,100 kWh — enough to heat a well-insulated room for several months.
Use the heating oil equivalent feature to compare firewood costs against your current fuel. If oil costs €1.10 per liter and a stere of beech replaces 165 liters, that stere delivers the equivalent of €181 in oil value. If you can buy seasoned beech for less than that, firewood is the better deal financially.
One full cord equals approximately 3.62 cubic meters of stacked wood. However, since a cord includes air gaps between logs, the actual solid wood content is closer to 2.4–2.5 cubic meters.
Oak and beech consistently rank highest among common firewood species. Dry oak delivers roughly 26–29 million BTU per cord, making it one of the most energy-dense and cost-effective heating woods available.
Yes, significantly. Freshly cut (green) wood can have 50% moisture content, which cuts effective heat output nearly in half. Always use wood seasoned for at least 12–18 months, or kiln-dried wood tested below 20% moisture.